Monday, June 7, 2010

My cowboy and cowgirl


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My own George Strait


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Going native


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Cody


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Sunday, June 6, 2010

Buffalo Kind of Look Like Bantha

Thus said Mr. Hawking upon review of the Buffalo herds at Custer State Park. I am inundated with Star Wars fans in my house. The Sailor is so proud. We also saw prairie dogs, elk, deer, a mouse, red squirrels, a turkey vulture, a hawk, cows, horses and many, many buffalo. They would wander in the road on the Wildlife Loop and stare down cars. And meander off. It was cool. The nervous side of me kept wondering what we would do if they decided to charge the car, but since people do this all the time, I think they are kind of bored with the cars. There was a bull cow that started head butting the fence when we drove past, but the buffalo just kind of looked at us, and grunted.

You may be wondering about the car. After all the hullaboo, the mechanic thinks that our coolant tank was previously overfilled and popped the top off when it heated and boiled over when we were driving up a mountain/gravel road. Once he added the right amount of coolant, it worked again fine. They checked the engine and got the check engine light off and the thermostat works. For the sum total of 8 hours and $26 dollars, plus USAA Road side assistance, we have my car back. The guys at Tires Plus were AWESOME. Even though they closed at 1800, they worked on our car until he got it fixed to make sure everything checked out. Although every time they hook my car up to the car computer, it always tells them everything is fine. Anyway, they didn’t bilk us and they could have easily done so and were so nice and helpful. Yippee! However, upon going into Wyoming, the Airbag light went off when the car momentarily lost power. I am beginning to think the car is cursed. I am thinking there is a little electrical something wrong and just praying that she will get us to Washington where I can get her checked out tail to hood.

We left South Dakota today and I am sad. South Dakota was simply amazing. The ever changing landscape continuously left me surprised. Its people are friendly and kind and helpful (although the French Couple at the Park were like French everywhere). We have seen prairie, caves, mountains, flats, plateaus, outcroppings, erosion, lakes, rivers, buttes, mesas, caverns, canyons….it is an ever changing and intriguing landscape of beauty. I am greatly impressed and never bored. On our final trail out of South Dakota, we took the Needles Highway into Custer State Park (to see the Buffalo we promised the kids yesterday)….we had seen many comments on blogs to do the Needles Highway, but no one really said why. Well, I am here to tell you why. It’s freaking awesome. First you wind up through these amazing granite out croppings that are tall and skinny and well, look like needles. There are three single lane tunnels that have been drilled through the rock in which to drive. There is a 5 mph switchback when the road winds down the hill and best of all, there is an area, where we thought we had taken a wrong turn—the road drives up into a parking area surrounded by rock on all sides. We went to turn left to turn back around and find the road we missed, when there was the turn into the mountain to continue the road! You couldn’t see it until you turned. One of the vistas has been dubbed Cathedral Spires and indeed, it is a church of God’s creation in the middle of a mountain. Fantastic!

Lunch for Treb was a Bison Patty Melt. Yum.

It took us about 3 hours to get out of the park and SD and we entered Wyoming, in which, while SD constantly surprised both the Sailor and I, Wyoming is everything we imagined. We took a detour to check out Devil’s Tower national park and several melt-downs by Mr. Hawking. I have been puked on enough from screaming thus far to fill my quota of spit up. A little old lady commented that “boy was he in a mood.” I told the Sailor to smile at the camera like we were having a good time. The Devil’s Tower is pretty cool. In fact, it is so cool, it looks fake. It doesn’t look natural at all, because it is so uniform in shape and column structure. The Native American legend states (or in some sort of variation) that there were 7 Indian girls that were being chased by a bear/wolf/buffalo and a tree/hill spoke to them to climb on top to save them from the bear/wolf/buffalo…the hill/tree grew and grew until it reached the heavens and the girls became the stars in the Pleiades/Big Dipper. I read three different variations on the story and none were exactly the same. Cool myth and I am sure this is exactly how it happened (an Ode to my EfM buds). Since the mood of the kids was a disaster (I’d say in the making, but it was a disaster that was already happening)….we packed up ship and headed back out. I am a little tired of the car, so I am sure my angels are too. It’s incredibly difficult to be patient and sympathetic though when you are being screamed at.
I am so used to humidity that the air is so dry up here that I am just dry. My lungs feel dry, my nose feels dry and my mouth feels dry, but I don’t feel thirsty. It’s so odd. I bet the idea of humidity up here is like 10%. I am so from the south.

The road to Cody is long and boring although we can see the Rocky Mountains in the distance. This is a first for me. We are averaging 36 miles for every service station so we have had to watch our gas and bladders and stop when we need. The Sailor enjoys having the interstate to himself.

The kids are asleep, the Sailor is listening to a boring book on tape that he has already read, I have no cellular connection for my laptop, so I am obviously typing in Word again and I have nothing good to read. I have finished all my books and while “The Fourth Star” was an excellent book, I have met my quota of military books for the moment. The Sailor’s suggestion to read “Black Hearts” about the deterioration of a platoon in Iraq leaves me wanting. Thus I write. If I was a tad more motivated, I could use this time to write a book. I keep telling the Sailor it’s all in my head if I get the gumption to put it on digits; so I blog instead.
I am three quarters across the country and while it has all been amazing, I am finding myself strangely emotional to finally come to the realization that we have uprooted our family and have moved from one coast to the next. I am shocked and a little nervous and probably a lot anxious (I do this every time) that there won’t be a return trip for two to three years and while I may be a practicing duck, I am definitely feeling out of water. My son however has told me that this is the best move ever and each night and for grace he prays to God and gives thanks for the wonderful times with Granny and Gamma and the cousins, for the Caves and Mount Rushmore and for the train and he prays that we continue to have a good trip. As do I. We have a day in Cody, WY ahead of us and a rodeo. Yeehaw!

1800: Dinner at the Branding Iron CafĂ© in Dayton, WY is proof that stopping in at random home grown American joints is a smart thing to do. Not only did they have a decent glass of wine, they filled it to the top. Dinner was chicken fried steak (I couldn’t resist) and homemade mashed potatoes (swoon!). Treb had a philly cheese steak with real beef and homemade potato chips. They made pancakes just for my kids. KUDOS! Dayton is at the edge of the Rocky Mountain and the Branding Iron was the ONLY restaurant until we either stop at a lodge or get to the other side. The mountains are magnificent. It reminds me of the Alps, but different. I can see if you don’t need company or people that living out here would be a dream come true. I still kind of need people. But dang, these mountains are fabulous. I know we aren’t in Montana yet, but I still haven’t figure out the “Big Sky” thing. I’ll let you know if it strikes.

Wyoming


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Saturday, June 5, 2010

The Volvo is on the Way to the Mechanic and We are NOT in it

I am coming to the realization that we will never get to see everything of the US. I am slightly regretful that I did not have the gumption or free-spirit to take a year off after college and travel the US and world and rough it. I wish I were younger and less inclined to worry so that I could troop through the national parks and trails with nothing but what I could carry on my back. I wish I had learned what I really needed and those things that simply make the travel nice. I almost wish that I would give in to the Sailor’s desire to home-school the kids, sell everything and travel around the world in the boat, because there is so much to see and so little time to do it. I am overwhelmingly blessed to enjoy what I have and be able to consider myself a fairly diverse traveler. It is an amazing country we live in and I have only seen a small fraction of it. I am enchanted by the mix of Little Germany/Western culture in this part of the state. It makes the experience familiar, yet different and the food an interesting mix. Our tow truck guy today talked about how his family came from Russia and Germany to settle in SD and the mix of countries is very evident.

Oh! Did I not mention the tow truck? The one that is taking our Volvo to a mechanic 30 miles away since we are almost in the middle of nowhere?
We started out the day on a scenic journey past another creepy guy being blown out of granite. The Crazy Horse Monument has been under construction for the last 20 odd years and the locals joke that it will be another 20 until it is complete. It’s rather cool to see the shape of Crazy Horse’s head and horse take shape and we’ve told Mr. Hawking that he’ll have to come back in 20 years to see if it is done.
From there, we went to Jewel Cave National Monument to go spelunking. It was a jewel of a trip to see all the stalactite and stalagmite formations. Mr. Hawking was smitten by our Ranger Vickie. He couldn’t stop asking her questions. We trooped through a maze of about 1.5 miles and oohed and ahhed. It was great. I love caves. I would truly be happy to check out the many other in the area. The scientists guesstimate that they have only explored about 5 % of Jewel Cave’s possible area. It’s a breathing cave and can get upwards of 35mph winds when low and high pressure systems change. I find it, yet again, reassuring that what is above the earth is connected to what happens below the earth. The estimated age for the cave is around 3-6 billion years. How cool is that.

We left Jewel Cave and the car was driving fine.

Did I mention that my car is on a tow truck in need of fixing?

We headed to Custer State Park and enjoyed a lovely picnic by the lake with the intent to go see the herds of bison that have a sanctuary in the park. We headed up Coolidge Mountain when upon arrival there was a loud pop, smoking and coolant leaking from the car. The water pump seemed work according to some car savvy British Columbians nearby and the hypothesis is that we blew a coolant hose. However, the engine temp gauge is also not working. We found that out coming down the mountain and ended up re-parking by the lake and waited about 3 hours for the tow truck to arrive. The car must be towed 30 miles away and I am praying like the dickens that they can fix it in the next 24-48 hours. I love my car. I don’t want to succumb to the mini-van, I love my car. Please God, let my car get better.
The Godfathers would be greatly impressed that I have yet to shed a tear.
We are eternally grateful to our dear friends “The Chevys’” that are in the area and stopped by to check on us, provide snacks and water and let their kids play with my kids. They were a great diversion, even if our planned dinner out has been nixed.
So, The Sailor is on his way with the tow truck and our car to Rapid City, while the kids and I were dropped off at the hotel for delivered pizza, TV and a praying session that we can get our car back soon. We’re not sure what the plan is….we have intentions, not plans as the Sailor reminds me, but he’s a duck. My girlfriend from college and I married ducks. That is to say our men let things like this run off their skin, whereas my friend and I tend to freak. I am proud to be a practicing duck today. Quack Quack.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Moose Drool

The Alpine Inn in Hill City, SD is on to something. There are two (well three) things on the menu: a 6 oz Fillet with baked potato, Texas toast and a wedge of iceberg lettuce with Ranch or a 9 oz Fillet with the same. They also offer a hot dog with fruit for kids. That’s it. No subs. And that’s how they keep this amazing piece of cow at 8.95 for each 6 oz. I don’t remember the cost of the 9 oz, but it was cheap. And it was amazingly delish beef. Perfectly seasoned and I generally don’t like to eat beef outside of the Sailor’s grill. For less than $50 we each had two (adult) drinks, each had a 6 oz fillet, one hot dog order for the kids, a crème brulee and coffee. You can’t beat that for cost. And people, iceberg lettuce is simply a conduit for good dressing. There isn’t anything healthy about it. That was the cap for the day.

Today made Mr. Hawking’s day. We spent two hours on a 1880 steam engine touring the Black Hills. This was so relaxing for me and so enthralling to the kids. Well worth the money. The Black Hill’s are named as such because the Ponderosa Spruce trees native to the area do not reflect light and from a distance give the appearance of Black Hills.

The area is also known for its HUGE outcroppings of granite. You may have been aware that this, but these four guys have their heads immortalized in the granite. George Washington, Mr. Jefferson (Hey, I DID just live in Charlottesville, VA for the last year—Treb was astounded to read in the park write up on Mr. Jefferson that his top accomplishments did not include the founding of UVA), Teddy Roosevelt and Abe Lincoln overlook the Black Hill’s valley to ensure our democracy always has leadership. I found the Badlands more impressive overall, but Mount Rushmore is more impressive from a distance than the park. Although it is cool. I find that it is evidence that someone was kookier than I to spend their life’s pursuit in blowing up the side of the mountain to look like our most famous presidents. It’s cool, but I’m a little more awed by mother-nature in her majesty. And let’s face it; four guys’ heads on a mountain is a little creepy. But it is cool.

I ate Bison tonight. At Bumpin' Buffalo's Bar and Grill. Yummy. Nice and lean without being too dry and stringy and it has an excellent flavor. I am looking forward to some Elk, maybe some antelope if we can find it. Who knows, maybe we’ll find some more western game to try. I'd suggest frying up a little Bald Eagle, but I think that's treason.

We also washed it all down with Moose Drool, an excellent beer out of Colorado in which each sip gets a little smoother than the last.

I have a small confession to make….I make my kids hold my hand even when they don’t have to because I like the way their little paws feel. :) Don’t tell them, they still think mommy is just keeping up for their safety and don’t try and convince me you haven’t done the same thing too. Their little hands are so soft and sweet.
We are off to Custer State Park tomorrow to check out the buffalo or bison, or whatever we have domesticated. Moo.

South Dakota






 
 

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Thursday, June 3, 2010

The Post without a Snappy Title

I woke up this morning and thought I was on the set of the movie Twister. A bunch of storm chasers from Texas Tech took over the hotel (The Dunes) last night and sure enough the modern/technologically advanced equivalent of “Dorothy” was loaded up on the bed of a truck and a line of SUVs and pickups followed with all the meteorologists. It was a little surreal. However, I can totally understand the fascination and passion. It’s amazing to me to watch weather form across the plains and hills. The clouds are a constantly changing canvas of light and dark and contrast and power. I am convinced that ever y triangular wisp on a cloud is a potential funnel and I wait with dreaded fascination for a potential tornado. The Sailor thinks I am slightly paranoid.

I wasn’t sure what I thought the Badlands were going to be like, but I felt stupefied when we arrived. Long, endless (pun intended) plains give way to these massive sand castle like mountains that are made from volcanic type ash. I am awed by a creation that has existed since prehistoric times. I never think of the US as having had dinosaurs, but the Badlands are proof that I am wrong. You know, generally, I don’t really think of how America was formed, but this area is living testament of the collision between earth, air and water in massive formations of this dried stuff that when wet, expands and gets harder. We took the kids on a relatively easy hike through the “Door” trail to over look only one portion of the National Park. You can see the dried river beds from where rain runs freely from the formations down the White River Basin. What was startling was a warning sign to take water on a short (0.75 mile hike). I would have normally blown off the warning, but I was kind of thirsty, so we loaded up water and snacks. Out on the plateaus and rock formations the temperature ramped up. And it was so dry. I could feel the saliva evaporating in my mouth. I am thankful we took water. You could feel the dryness seeping moisture from your skin, mouth, nose and everything tasted faintly of clay.

Mr. Hawking was constantly on the lookout for a rattlesnake. In turn we found a bunny, an elk-horn sheep, and several hawks. I am constantly amazed by God’s creation in the earth and reassured by the cycle of life when I see a loan tree growing on a freakish outcropping of rock that somehow became the home of a random tree seed blown on the wind from who knows where. I am comforted that things are so much bigger and more complex than me. This area astounds me with its peace. While the kids made me cross-eyed on several occasions, I simply had to look around and felt calm. God is good.

During our hike, the Sailor commented that he wondered where the Sand People were since we truly did feel on the set of Tatooine for Star Wars. Little Miss Sunshine piped up clear as a bell, “Daddy, there can’t be Sand People here, there is no sand!”
On the way out of the park, Mr. Hawking remarked that when he gets old enough, he wants to come back and do all the trails and mommy and daddy won’t be able to tell him which ones he can and cannot do. (Have you ever noticed that I have very opinionated and strong willed children?). Mr. Hawking was only sad that mommy and daddy wouldn’t be there for the trip. To which the Sailor told Mr. Hawking, any time you want daddy to go hike with you, give me a call and I will come. Mr. Hawking replied, “but daddy, you’ll be a grandpa then!”

We followed the Badlands to a visit to a Cold War missile silo in the area. It was difficult to explain to our four year old the threat from Russia. He wanted to know if the bad guys were gone from Russia and if so, where was the rocket pointing now. Ah, difficult theology, politics, and world societies on the level of one so young. He was so interested in the rocket because he loves space so much, but then to discuss nuclear weaponry and what a rocket could be used to destroy was an uncomfortable/difficult discussion.

We then were off to trip to Wall Drug for a free donut and coffee. You just have to love places that do nice things for Veterans. Kudos!

We are on our way to Hill City for three days in the Black Mining Hills of South Dakota seeing caves, Mount Rushmore, Dinos, Trains and who knows what else. I have my heart set on cow for dinner tonight. I guess you can only look at meat on the side of the road and wonder if it tastes better. Moooo.

There have been no stadiums today. Yahoo!

The check engine light is back on in my car. :(

We had a SMASHING good time

1015: Visiting with friends from the military in a new duty station is like picking up a conversation that never ended. I love the military life and my military friends. Their home (and my home) always has an open door to those who are also passing on to a new life. I do not think I will ever feel alone in my life as there will always be a friend in some state in which to share a cup of joe or something stronger. The two days with Superwoman and her kids was an oasis after two long days of driving. Manhattan, KS is the great metropolis known as the Little Apple to serve the Fort Riley area. Superwoman’s Honda took on my Volvo. Who do you think won? However, it did fix our check engine light, so you never know! Manhattan was a great opportunity for Mr. Hawking and Little Miss Sunshine to play with two of their best friends in life. Their friends were waiting on the front steps for us to arrive. Both of my kids were asleep when we arrived and the look on Mr. Hawking’s face as he saw his best friend was like he was in a dream. He was so happy. They also picked off where they last were in their friendship and took off nonstop for the next two days. I would love that no matter where we are that Mr. Hawking could pick up where he left off with his buddy and always have that friendship. Great food, great drink, great conversation, great splash park and great people.

We think we’ve knocked out the bulk of our long driving days, although today will be a 10ish hour one through the back roads of Nebraska on our way to South Dakota. We have been through 9 states now.

During our stay we tried Kansas City barbecue at Arthur Bryant’s. The first time we drove into Kansas City, both the Sailor and I swore we could smell the barbecue pit from the interstate. Kansas City reeks of barbecue. The brisket was very good, although I confess I think Texas has the market on beef brisket. The Sailor felt that the pulled pork was a waste of time and Superwoman agrees that no one makes pulled pork like The Sailor. The burnt ends smothered in barbecue sauce was amazing. And all of it slathered on a slab of white bread intensifies the experience on the palate. Good eats.

Oh! We just saw a coyote cross the road!

Kansas smells like cow.

We crossed the Big Blue River on our route north to which Mr. Hawking commented, “it is not big and it’s not blue.” He was not impressed.

The corn is not growing yet, so we will be missing the cornfields of Nebraska.

We now have pictures at University of Kansas, Kansas State and Louisville stadiums. I am still not impressed.

There is something wrong with America when civilization of a town is defined by the number of McDonald’s.

1520: I am so tired of football stadiums. We have now seen the Nebraska Cornhuskers. Whoopideedoo. This is what you do for love.

And now my dang car’s tailgate won’t open. This caused a hissy fit. The sailor fails to see why I find these things annoying. I can run a code and be cool as a cucumber, but annoying crap like this makes my eyes cross. We are on our way to Rosenblatt. I am trying to be enthusiastic. Am I fooling you yet?

Nebraska is hillier than I thought. The Sailor is in love with 75 mph speed limits.

I feel like I am in an abusive relationship with my computer. My network connection is so spotty that I feel like it says to me, “baby, just trust me one more time.” And so I do and so it kicks me off and goes “AHAHAHAHAH.” If it didn’t belong to the gubmint, I might have thrown it out of the car. It’s really annoying.

2300: Did I mention that Kansas smells slightly of cow? Nebraska is overwhelmingly cow. There is a stretch of 275 that all four of us held our noses. It’s incredibly beautiful though. We could go miles (7 and 11 miles at different times) at a time without seeing another car. I have been in the worst mood today from a combination of work, car irritations and whining kids. I am trying to remind myself that my mood makes their mood worse. I am practicing the quiet voice. I am not sure that it works. Overall they are good, but really, when a restaurant doesn’t offer chocolate milk, I am a little tired of being the one to blame. I think I am going to quit buying them food and just make a peanut butter sandwich for them. Cheaper and less fight. I have now stocked the car. Which is full to overflowing as it is.

We are staying in Sweet Valentine, Nebraska tonight. We mistakenly thought we would have no problem finding a hotel in the middle of nowhere Nebraska in a town that boasted 4 hotels. I was told it was "summertime in Valentine." I thought this might be code for something important. Valentine is beautiful, but nothing on the internet clued us in to that special something that is drawing tourists. It's there, but we have yet to identify it. It might be the potential for natural disaster, a team of storm chasers (yes, they are not just in the movie Twister) booked two of the towns hotels. We finally lucked out with the last “Deluxe Suite” and the Dunes Lodge and Suites.

We are finding that 2100 at night feels like 1900. I thought it would be the other way around. I am wide awake at 2300 and wondering why I don’t feel like it is much later. The sun stays up longer now and the sunsets cresting over the rolling hills leaves me slightly breathless. It makes me wish I was a painter. The earth looks like dough rising in multiple mounds along the landscape. Cows are everywhere. In fact, if you cured the cow, beat the dough, you may have the perfect recipe for pizza. :)

I have seen cow farms that make me worry where my meat comes from and I have seen those that are roaming and feeding on grass. I am hoping mine come from the grass fed ones. It certainly looks healthier. We have still not seen corn. I think it is a little earlier. Other than a coyote, a mouse and a bunny, wildlife has been absent. We did sit a hawk carrying a snake the other day and that was pretty cool…it was either a snake, or the Sailor said it was extraordinarily blessed. Hmmmmm……..

Tomorrow we are off to the Badlands and the Black Hills. I have no culinary delights in which to pontificate….an adequate gyro and a pepperoni pizza scarffed at 2200, left much to be desired. I am holding out for a good steak and bison burger in my future.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

We are not in Kansas anymore!!!!


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